Advance ic chip removal process

Advance ic chip removal process

How to remove ic chip with 102 pins.

1st) Remove the chip

The chip is removed then find the same chip from another motherboard.

Place Flux around the new chip in order to help with the soldering.

The contacts need to be free of solder so the pins can't short. Use the soldering iron to

 brush away excess solder from the joints.

The old chip is removed. The new chip is now in place.

*Ensure that the version number on the old chip is the same as the new chip.

How to fix an intermittent display LCD on Canon PowerShot S5IS

How to fix an intermittent display LCD on Canon PowerShot S5IS

The Canon PowerShot S5IS digital cameras feature a tilt-and-swing LCD screen. You can adjust the LCD screen on different angels. But the LCD cable is an easy broken part due to the frequent movements. When the cable is broken, the common symptoms are: intermittent display, changes to EVF by itself, upside down pictures.
The cable is not a separate part, you need to replace hinge too. They come together with two switches. Figure 1 is the picture o f the hinge.



Take all the batteries out including the button battery. Remove the eyepiece cover. Remove 3 screws on the bottom (shown on figure 2).

Remove 2 screws beside the viewfinder and all the other screws on the right and left sides. Gently take off the side cover.

Swing the LCD to left side, separate the back cover slowly, and disconnect the keypad cable from main board.

Remove 2 screws and take the hinge cover off.

Pull out the white flat cable; disconnect the LCD cable with yellow and light blue connectors. Remove 3 screws to take the LCD screen apart.


Remove 2 screws here and …

2 screws here. Open up the LCD back cover.

Remove a silver screw here.
And one here. Disconnect the connectors to remove the hinge.

Now put on the new hinge. Watch out the gray guide wires when plugging the cables. Put back the screws and close the LCD cover.

Let the white cable go through the hinge when you put the LCD screen back.

Connect and organize the cables properly.

Put on the hinge cover.

Connect the cable of back cover.

Now put on the side cover and the eyepiece cover.


They are gray and black screws, the gray ones are on the sides to match the body color.

How to Install Nikon L2 L3 Display LCD Screen Replace / Display Umtauchen

How to Install Nikon L2 L3 Display LCD Screen Replace / Display Umtauchen

Important Warning: Camera Flash Capacitor Shock

Any repair that requires opening up the camera case requires some electrical background and knowledge, and should not be conducted by anyone unfamiliar with basic electrical components and safety precautions. If you must open up your camera in an attempt to repair it, it is very important that you understand that there is some risk of SEVERE electrical shock. All digital cameras contain a flash capacitor. This device stores quite a bit of electrical energy from the camera's batteries. This energy is utilized to power the camera's flash. The device itself looks a little like a battery, and in turn draws its power from the camera's batteries. In order to work on your camera, it will be necessary to safely drain the capacitor of any residual charge it may have.

Flash Capacitor

The following link is downloadable procedures for safely discharging the flash capacitor to greatly reduce the risk of electrical shock. Before downloading, the usual warning of “Follow these procedures at your own risk. These procedures should only be considered as a last resort on a broken camera with an expired warranty. I take no responsibility should you damage your camera in following these steps. Also note that there is some danger of electrical shock. I also take no responsibility if you accidentally zap yourself while following these procedures.” Here's the link to the procedures:

Disassemble a canon A540/A530 to the sensor to remove the ir cut filter

This tutorial will show you how to disassemble a canon a540/a530 to the sensor to remove the ir cut filter.

Tools:
#00 philips screw driversoldering iron

couple of notes:
- there is 300 volts or so inside the camera. canon has done a pretty good job shielding those areas, and I haven't gotten shocked even though my fingers have been everywhere, but be careful anyway. it's enough energy to kill you several times if you're unlucky.
- you may end up with an ir sensitive camera, or you may end up buying a new camera.

remove the green and red screws. the green screws are identical. take off the back cover. the back cover snaps together with the front cover at the top of the camera.

remove the screw and loosen the clips holding the lcd. disconnect the cables connecting the lcd and set the lcd aside.
remove the screw and take off the front cover. there's a thin dust ring between the cover and the lens barrel, don't lose it.

remove the screws. the red screw is a metal screw. pry off the plastic io panel and tripod thread assembly.

if you want to, now is the time to turn back first remove the two screws holding the control panel pcb, then disconnect and remove the control panel. very carefully disconnect the cables. the connectors are very delicate, and if you snap one, you'll be buying a new camera.

desolder the circled wires. it is not necessary to detach the crossed wires. remove the three screws holding the main pcb (not indicated here), and reflect the main pcb along the bottom, exposing the sensor.

circuit board pics...

sweet

remove the screws holding the sensor. the sensor is also glued down near the screw tabs. remove the sensor by prying near the screw tabs - the glue is brittle. do not pry at the center. there are three springs beneath the sensor, be careful and hold a hand over the sensor as you pry at it so the sensor does not pop out. my guess is that they are used for focus adjustment - the springs push the sensor back to to the screw, and the screws can be loosened to move the sensor back. then glue is applied to secure its position.

remove the ir cut filter (looks pinkish). you will need to move the sensor back slightly by approx 0.1 mm as removing the glass filter changes the optical path...

there are two ways that I can think of:
1. include the springs as you reassemble the sensor. screw the sensor down all the way, and loosen the screws by an equal amount to move the sensor back. glue to secure it
2. prepare three focus spacers out of a thin material (plastic, metal) and screw the sensor on top of that. you don't need the springs if you do this.

clean the sensor and the area near the ir filter, and reassemble everything. everything should work if you didn't break anything. have fun with your now ir sensitive cam

Troubleshooting And Repairing ATX Power Supply

Troubleshooting And Repairing ATX Power Supply

This ATX power supply came in with the complaint of intermittent no power. When testing it with power on, I could see that the fan is not working. Not only that, some filter capacitors also became bulge because of the heat accumulated inside the power supply. The failure of the fan would not suck out the heat generated by the components especially the switch mode power transformer. If you switch off a working power supply and power removed, touch the power transformer, you could feel it is quite warm. Another heat source would be the heat sink where the output diodes attached to it. Diodes run a little bit hotter in filter circuit than diodes in other circuits due to the high current present at the secondary output line.

As for the malfunction fan, you actually could use a Philips oil based contact cleaner to service the fan. The grease inside the fan would run dry after serving for sometimes and eventually stop rotating. Remove the back plastic cap of the fan and spray it with the contact cleaner and you would be surprised the fan could actually regain back its glory. It will actually work just like a new fan. If it still doesn’t rotate, the best choice is to replace with a new fan. If you have the power supply that lying down at your work place then you could salvage the fan and install it.

From the photo above you also could see those decayed glue that stick besides the components. Manufacturers purposely used some kind of glue to apply on the components where they think those components will shake or comes out when there is vibration or during shipping. After the equipment work for a long time and the heat generated inside the equipment will turn the glue into conductive and sometimes would even corrode the pins of the components and eventually cause the equipment to stop working. Scrap it off with your test pen and use Thinner solution to clean the pcb board. After replacing the capacitors, removed the decayed glue and service the fan, the Atx power supply again given a new life to faithfully serve the computer.

Some ATX power supply would take you a longer time to troubleshoot because of ‘too many’ components on the board. The most frustrated part is that you could not get the spare parts especially the power ic. Even if you could locate one, the price would be sky high and if this happen, I will usually get the customer to buy a new unit since nowadays the price of a new one are quite cheap.

Using High Voltage Meter or Probe to Repair Equipment Problems Fast

Using High Voltage Meter or Probe to Repair Equipment Problems Fast

A high-voltage meter or probe is the tool needed to test high voltage circuit such as the picture tube of a Monitor and Television. Besides measuring the anode voltage of a cathode ray tube, it can also be used to check the focus voltage of the flyback transformer. A normal maximum voltage a high voltage meter can check is about 30 to 45 kilo volts.

The ranges is marked in front of the voltmeter panel. Majority of our multimeter maximum voltage range is from 600 volt ac/dc to 1000 volt. Due to the low range of our multimeter whether an analog or digital meter is, it can’t test any voltages that is higher than the maximum voltage or else your meter may becomes faulty!

There are some types of multimeter where you could connect an external probe which is specifically designed to measure the high voltage of equipment. . In order to take the measurement, simply connect the high voltage meter ground cable to the chassis or cold ground of the Television or Computer Monitor. Then, slip the probe tip underneath the flyback transformer anode cap. The high voltage reading can be read from the meter’s panel.

I don’t always use high voltage meter to troubleshoot Monitor. I will only use it when there is a symptom of no high voltage, high voltage shutdown, focus out problem, small and big horizontal size display. By using only the high voltage probe I can tell at which section of a Monitor is faulty.

With this meter, it really saves me a lot of my precious time because I don’t have to guess anymore which portion of a Monitor is giving problem. In Monitor troubleshooting, one of the most frustrated complaint is the Monitor shut down when switch on. You do not know where to begin and if you are a beginner, you may take lots of time to troubleshoot this type of problem. That’s why understanding how an equipment work is very important before you start to repair it.

Using this high voltage meter you could clearly see if the Monitor is shutting down before it reached 24 kilovolt or after 24kv. If the Monitor shutdown when the voltage reached 15 kilovolt then you have to check the horizontal oscillator circuit because the horizontal drive pulse was cut off when it reached 15 kilovolt.

All my concentration was upon this horizontal oscillator circuit which includes the surrounding components. After troubleshoot for sometime I managed to locate a faulty resistor nearby the horizontal oscillator ic that turned into high ohms.

Assuming if the high voltage shutdown when it reached the 28-30 kilovolt scale then you can suspect the B+ voltage could be too high, internal flyback transformers capacitor value has became too low or open circuit, safety capacitor (hold down capacitor) value run or open and suspect also the flyback transformer feedback circuit.

Many repair technicians and engineers confused about the section that they going to check if there is a complaint of small horizontal width. A small horizontal width can be caused by two sections in a Monitor i.e.; the B+ and horizontal size circuit.

If the picture horizontal size is small and measured only 14-18 kilo volt with the high voltage meter then suspect the problem in the B+ boost circuit. It could be a defective B+ fet, dry joints, a missing gate pulse to B+ fet, an open filter capacitor, a faulty current sense resistor or even a partially shorted B+ coil. A small horizontal size also can be caused by a faulty horizontal size and s-correction circuit (circuit that controls the resolution width). Even though there are problems in the horizontal size circuit, the high voltage will still maintain at 24 kilo volt. Thus, by using the high voltage meter I could easily know which section is having problem and this will make my repair job a lot faster.

Testing the focus voltage of a flyback transformer can also be done with the help of  high voltage meter. With the help of this probe, knowing the focus voltage will easily tell if the focus out problems was due to a faulty picture tube, flyback transformer or even the crt socket. Focus voltage is about 5 to 10 kilo volts. Warning! Do not use your multimeter to measure it. Suspect a defective flyback transformer if the voltage that you checked rising after the Monitor switch is ‘on’ for sometimes.

For a good flyback transformer, the focus voltage should maintain the same even though the Monitor has switched ‘on’ for a very long time. Currently I’m using the Kaise-SK9000 high voltage meter probe that is made in Japan. I’ve already used it for more than eight years and I can say that it is a very good meter and reliable too. Invest one if you are in the Monitor or Television serving line and see how this high voltage meter can cut down your troubleshooting time.

 

Measuring The Focus Voltage 

Epson LX300 Printer Repair-No Power and Can't Print Caused By A Faulty Max232cwe Ic

Epson LX300 Printer Repair-No Power and Can't Print Caused By A Faulty Max232cwe Ic

Intermittent no power was the complaint of this Epson lx 300 printer. As usual, the main suspect was the power on/off switch. After removing the power board from the printer, I could clearly see a dry joint at the pin of the switch mode power transformer. This was the caused of the printer problem. There was no other loose connection or dry joints on the other part.

Cleaning with the thinner solution and applied fresh solder solved the intermittent no power problem. In this article, I would like you to know that not all power problems must be caused by major components burnt. A loose connections, dry joints, resistor open circuit, high esr ohms in electrolytic capacitor could cause intermittent no power or no power at all.

Troubleshooting with the right techniques and using a good procedure would normally solve electronic faults easily. Another thing that I want to share with you is that the power board is using a dual photo coupler (optoisolator) NEC PS2561-2 ic. There are two separate optoisolator ic built into one single package. If you have the ECG Philips master replacement guide book, you could find out the internal diagram of this type of ic. Once you locate the pinouts, you actually could test it with your analog multimeter. About how to test optoisolator, you could refer back to my website.

Sometimes there are more than few problems that you need to repair. In the above case, after power up the printer, it can’t print at all. It looks like there was no signal entering the CPU IC. The printer self test works perfectly okay. For your information, if this type of problems happens in other brand of printer, the troubleshooting method is the same. I will first look at the communication chip or buffer chip. In this printer, the main suspect was the Maxim Max232cwe multi channel RS232 Transceivers ic.

Solder the ic out was not a problem in this smd type ic. After the replacement with a new ic the printer works beautifully. Remember, whether you are troubleshooting the Epson lx 300 printer or any other model, first check the printer cable and then the communication or buffer ic.

The MAXIM MAX232CWE IC

Fixing a cracked LCD on a Canon Powershot Elph. SD600 ( SD750,SD1000,SD1100)

Fixing a cracked LCD on a Canon Powershot Elph. SD600 ( SD750,SD1000,SD1100)

Note: if you are replacing the Backlight please see read the instructions submitted by a reader at the bottom of this post.

Hello future LCD replacers. I hope it goes well. This process seems scary and is made even more scary by voiding the warenty. But it is cheap and fairly easy, so give it a shot. I hope these photos and tips will help. These photos are of a SD600 but they may well be good for most similar Canon digital cameras.See the comments linked from the bottom of the page for some additional tips and encouragement. I try to add them in as the come but they might be worth checking out. And for those of you who have commented THANK YOU I appreciate the kind words.
Diagnosis: First determine that a cracked LCD is the problem. Here this is very clearly the case. The backlight is still functioning. This can be seen because a bright white light is still coming through but images are not present. If the display is completely black the problem may be the backlight and not the LCD. Replacing the backlight is very similar but not shown here.

Finding the parts: To order a new LCD for the Cannon SD600 you need to find out which of two different screens are in your camera. I found this out by calling the Canons Eastern USA suplier. 732-521-7007. They will sell you a new screen for about $50 including shipping once you know which screen you need.

step 0: take out the battery and memory card (thanks 4salmon I forgot to write this step down)

First remove the six exterior screws shown below. Two on the left, two on the right and two on the bottom(shown with one already removed).

Next gently remove the casing. It should come off in four pieces. A front, back and right panel and a small circular piece that is inset in the right panel.

Once the back panel is removed you can tell which LCD screen is needed. You are looking for the presence or absence of the word "SONY" on the left side of the metal rim around the LCD screen. When ordering the part tell them which one you have.

You can now order the correct part.(732-521-7007 in the US)To continue removing the LCD screen take out the screw in the upper right hand corner above the LCD screen.


Once the screw is removed gently slide the the screen to the left. Lightly lifting the piece of clear plastic next to the screw hole might be necessary.

Now you should be able to lift the LCD screen while it is still attached to the backlight. Two ribbon cables come out from them. The thicker is for the LCD screen and the thinner is for the backlight. The thicker is attached to the back of the backlight with adhesive.

Gently pry the LCD screen away from the backlight. You may need to use a small flat head screw driver.

Between the screen and backlight there is a a thin plastic sheet.

After separating the the LCD from the backlight peel the thick cable off of the back of the backlight. There is no need to clean off the remaining adhesive it will be useful with the new LCD cable.Next flip the the camera over and pull out the thick ribbon cable from its socket. Now tape a strip of paper to the end of the cable (props to this website for this great idea). This will allow you to easily thread the new cable.(UPDATE: It may be easier to do this by removing the tripod piece instead of threading it with paper. See Jamie's comment. I would love to know how this works for people as I would rather not take mine apart again just to look. 1/28/08: This has been confirmed.)

Now pull the ribbon through leaving the paper in the place where the ribbon was.

Cut the paper and discard the old LCD screen.Press the new LCD screen on to the backlight until it clicks into place.Now tape the ribbon for the new LCD screen to the paper and pull the paper through


Carefully pull the new ribbon through. Press the ribbon against that back of the backlight, it should stick to the old adhesive.Slide the backlight and LCD into their old position (from the left to the right). Now replace the screw in the upper right hand corner.

Now remove the paper from the ribbon and attach plug the ribbon cable into its socket. Make sure to push it in deep. I did this by putting a small screwdriver into each of the two small holes on the side of the ribbon and pushing the ribbon into the socket.

Once the cable is plugged in all that remains is to reassemble the case and replace the six screws of the exterior case. It is easiest to put them on in the order: Back, right and than front. When putting on the back panal make sure the switch on the panal is in the same position as the switch on the camera.

I had a problem that once the new screen was in place it showed a black screen in camera mode. I fixed this by holding down the menu key, turning it on and off and reseting the menu options. I am not sure which one is correct so try one at a time and tell me which one worked.(UPDATE Anonymous posted:To get the LCD to display in "camera mode" go to settings and do a "Reset All..."This should take care of the LCD being blank in camera mode.)